Alpine Ice Climbing in Ala-Archa

Alpine Ice routes in Ala-Archa

Learn how to climb severe alpine ice routes with style.

Ala-Archa is known for the variety of winter routes. The area offers easy access to the training spots on Aksai glacier, and short approaches to the actual alpine routes on Zabor Korony.

The weather in winter here as severe as it gets. The temperature could easily drop to −30 °C, so one have to be ready to climb fast and efficiently. Which is exactly the goal of our course:

You’ll learn to climb fast, safe and don’t waste energy for unnecessary shenaningans

Intinerary. This will give you an idea and outline our schedule. Wnen on site we can change it due to the weather and other conditions.

  • Day 1. Meet in Bishkek, and drive to Ala-Archa National park. Hike to the Ratsek Hut.
  • Day 2. Training at Aksai glacier. Toproping, building anchors, rappelling.
  • Day 3. Climb Akimov route on Zabor Korony (5 pitches of 50-degrees ice)
  • Day 4. Rest or training day on the glacier
  • Day 5. Climb a longer route on Zabor Korony—Plotnikov or Fyodorov (8 pitches)
  • Day 6. Rest day
  • Day 7. Climb Baychechekey via Iluschenko route (10 pitches up to 80° at steepest part)
  • Day 8. Coming back to Bishkek

Gear. Keep in mind the cold. Bring enough warm and puffy closes.

  • Helmet
  • Headlamp
  • Ice tools
  • Leasher for the tools
  • Harness
  • 5 ice screws
  • 4 locking carabiners
  • Tube-style belay device
  • 2×120cm sewn slings
  • 5 meters of cord
  • V-thread hook
  • 5 quickdraws
  • Crampons
  • Warm hat
  • Buff
  • Down jacket
  • Storm jacket (also could be a softshell—no big rains in these dates)
  • Warm mid-layer jacket
  • Fleece jacket
  • Base layer
  • Mittens (they are really imporant)
  • Warm gloves
  • Thin gloves
  • Full-zip warm pants or shorts
  • Softshell pants
  • Thick socks
  • Double boots

Cost. The course costs 850 euros per person. This price includes transfers, food, the instructor’s work, and accommodation.

P. S. If you support or justify the war in Ukraine in one way or another, we can’t climb together.