The goal is to reach the summit of Marble Wall, a mountain located in Central Tyan-Shan in Kazakstan. At 6146 meters tall, it is the perfect mountain to challenge yourself at a high altitude or prepare to climb even bigger mountains.
Despite having the “Wall” in its name, the mountain has relatively easy routes that don’t require actual climbing but still require basic mountaineering skills.
The border between Kazakhstan and China is precisely on the ridge we will climb, so we must obtain permits. It’s totally on us.
Itinerary
August 1. Start from Almaty. Drive to Zharqulaq mine. Hike to the base camp.
August 2. Climb Astana, 4451m — non-technical mountain opposite our primary objective.
August 3. rest day
August 4. Climb to Camp 1 on the Standart route. Stay there for the night.
August 5. Climb to the top of Uzlovaya, 4950m, and stay there for the night.
August 6. Descent to the base camp.
August 7, 8. Rest days
August 9, 10, 11. Camps 4030, 4900, and 5700
August 12. Summit 6146 and descent to camp 3
August 13. Descent to the base camp
August 14–16. Spare days
August 17. Drive to Almaty
Requirements
Good physical shape. It’s a group program, so we won’t be able to build it around your pace. We’ll choose something average for the group.
Basic mountaineering skills. Walking in crampons, self-arresting with an ice axe.
Insurance. We’ll do our best to keep you safe, but it’s a big mountain with a certain level of uncertainty.
Gear
- Crampons
- Classic ice axe
- Helmet
- Double or warm single boots
- Harness
- One 17-cm ice screw
- Three locking carabiner
- Belay/rappel device
- Five meters of 5–6mm cord
- Headlamp
- Sleeping bag (the warmer, the better)
- Sleeping mat
- 50–60-liters backpack
- Sunglasses
- Ski mask
- Personal spoon, bowl, and cup
Facilities
— We’ll stay in tents at a base camp. Two people per tent.
The same goes for the route.
— During the stay in the base camp we’ll be eating in a canteen. The cook will cook our meals. On the route, we’ll be cooking our own food. Be ready to help with melting water and clean your own dishes.
— There is a shower in the base camp.
Price
1950 € per person. The price includes:
- Food
- Tents and accommodation
- Transfers
- Permits
Insurance, flights, and personal gear are on you.